But I THINK I'm pretty safe on the MOTORcycle connection and the idea of it being off a Brit or Yankee made vintage bike.Īh, sorry guys. How deep do the messed up M10 threads extend? If it fits well enough how about just sigh and use an M10 bolt? The damage is done already.Īnd of course I jumped to all the same conclusions that Arcane suggested and I waved at in agreement. That should ensure that it doesn't strip out the obviously damaged threads.Īnd last of all. And at that point and assuming you manage to get a bottoming tap to run clear to the end of the hole tell your buddy to get a bolt that is longer and cut and file until it just barely seats the axle like 1 turn before the bolt bottoms. And since an M10 isn't far off the target the first few threads SHOULD aim the 3/8 tap in the right direction since the original 3/8 threads would have done the same for the M10 tap or bolt that did the damage. Next would be to clean up the threads with the proper 3/8-24 tap. Perhaps get back to him and convince him. For any solution that requires removing metal it's the least intrusive. Not sure why your buddy dismissed this idea. Next up for least damaging would be your original idea of a Helicoil. If your buddy is worried about a Helicoil removing metal I can't see him liking this plug idea. And if it's even too close to the end of the support and depending on what the motorcycle is used for and how hard it is ridden there's still a chance that it could shear at the end of the bored out hole for your plug if it's too close to the end of the support from the fork leg clamping. I would suggest that it not even be as long as the clamped and supported area of the fork leg it fits. The plug you add would never be part of the load bearing part of the axle so keep it small and don't go overly deep. I'd be very careful if you choose to bore out and press in or "glue" in a new insert. Using a form threading tap on metal which has a spring temper and will fight the forming should be. They would simply not stand up to much punishment otherwise. I don't know about your 4140 assessment but certainly any and all bicycle and motorcycle axles are heat treated. Not sure why there's a spline but odder things have been seen before. And the spline you mentioned and the single seating screw at the one end suggests it slides into a front fork and is then clamped by the fork legs. And only newer metric bicycles use tubular thinner wall through axles on some applications. I don't know of any older bicycles that used anything near to that size for an axle. At REMINC/CONTI we primarily use “high-performance thread-rolling” when referring to TAPTITE ® designs and “thread-forming” when referring to PLASTITE ® and REMFORM ® products.I'm waving in agreement with Arcane here.ģ/4" and inch size thread suggests an older vintage MOTORcycle of some sort. For example, we would refer to a Type AB screw used in sheet metal or a light metal alloy as a thread-forming screw, not a thread-rolling screw like TAPTITE ® that creates more clearly defined and cleaner internal threads.Īfter stating all this, we conclude that there is no “right” or “wrong” here. These definitions are not universal therefore, they are often used interchangeably and can cause confusion. Thread-rolling screws create an internal thread, like how a thread-rolling tap would function. (commonly called self-tapping screws) that create an internal thread by displacing material but typically are driven into thin sheet metal where the metal simply changes shape. Thread-forming screws can be Type AB, Type B, etc. Thread-cutting screws remove material and create real metal chips in the process. In fastener parlance, screws that create their own internal threads are often called thread-forming screws however, that class is made up of thread-cutting, thread-forming and thread-rolling. Both thread-rolling and thread-forming designations are used interchangeably in our industry, but what’s the difference? Thread-forming describes the process of creating a thread both internally and externally. The introduction of the original TAPTITE ® fastener elevated the application of thread-forming screws, resulting in the term “high-performance thread-rolling screws” and what can be some confusing nomenclature.
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